Who cast that first fateful tomato that started the La Tomatina revolution? The reality is no one knows. Maybe it was an anti-Franco rebellion, or a carnival that got out of hand. According to the most popular version of the story, during the 1945 festival of Los Gigantes (a giant paper mâché puppet parade), locals were looking to stage a brawl to get some attention. They happened upon a vegetable cart nearby and started hurling ripe tomatoes. Innocent onlookers got involved until the scene escalated into a massive melee of flying fruit. The instigators had to repay the tomato vendors, but that didn't stop the recurrence of more tomato fights—and the birth of a new tradition.
Fearful of an unruly escalation, authorities enacted, relaxed, and then reinstated a series of bans in the 1950s. In 1951, locals who defied the law were imprisoned until public outcry called for their release. The most famous effrontery to the tomato bans happened in 1957 when proponents held a mock tomato funeral complete with a coffin and procession. After 1957, the local government decided to roll with the punches, set a few rules in place, and embraced the wacky tradition.
Though the tomatoes take center stage, a week of festivities lead up to the final showdown. It's a celebration of Buñol's patron saints, the Virgin Mary and St. Louis Bertrand, with street parades, music, and fireworks in joyous Spanish fashion. To build up your strength for the impending brawl, an epic paella is served on the eve of the battle, showcasing an iconic Valencian dish of rice, seafood, saffron, and olive oil.
Today, this unfettered festival has some measure of order. Organizers have gone so far as to cultivate a special variety of unpalatable tomatoes just for the annual event. Festivities kick off around 10 a.m. when participants race to grab a ham fixed atop a greasy pole. Onlookers hose the scramblers with water while singing and dancing in the streets. When the church bell strikes noon, trucks packed with tomatoes roll into town, while chants of "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" reach a crescendo.
Then, with the firing of a water cannon, the main event begins. That's the green light for crushing and launching tomatoes in all-out attacks against fellow participants. Long distance tomato lobbers, point-blank assassins, and medium range hook shots. Whatever your technique, by the time it's over, you will look (and feel) quite different. Nearly an hour later, tomato-soaked bombers are left to play in a sea of squishy street salsa with little left resembling a tomato to be found. A second cannon shot signals the end of the battle. | Ko je bacio taj prvi sudbonosni paradajz kojim je započela revolucija "La Tomatina"? Niko zapravo ne zna. Možda se to desilo tokom pobune protiv Frankovog režima, ili na nekom karnevalu koji je izmakao kontroli. Prema najpoznatijoj verziji ove priče, 1945. godine, na festivalu "Los Gigantes" (paradi džinovskih lutaka napravljenih od papirmašea), nekoliko meštana je tražilo način da napravi gužvu i privuče pažnju. Zatekli su se pored kolica s povrćem i počeli da gađaju ljude zrelim paradajzom. Prvo su stradali nedužni posmatrači, da bi na kraju događaj poprimio razmere masovne bitke letećim plodovima. Podstrekači su morali da nadoknade troškove proizvođačima paradajza, ali to nije sprečilo nastavak borbe. Tako su započeli novi običaji. U strahu od nekontrolisanog širenja nereda, vlasti su pedesetih godina dvadesetog veka više puta propisivale zvanične zabrane, ublažavale ih i ponovo uspostavljale. 1951. godine, meštani koji su prkosili zakonu ostajali su u zatvoru sve dok se na javnim protestima ne bi zatražilo njihovo oslobađanje. Najdrskije u svom opiranju zabranama bile su pristalice borbi koje su 1957. godine održale lažnu sahranu, sa paradajzom u mrtvačkom kovčegu i ožalošćenom povorkom. Nakon toga, lokalne vlasti su odlučile da se uhvate u koštac sa izazovima, uvedu tek nekoliko pravila i prihvate šašavu tradiciju. Sa paradajzom u centru pažnje, praznična nedelja ulazi u završnicu. Slave se sveci zaštitnici grada Bunjola, Presveta Bogorodica i Sveti Luj Bertran, uz ulične parade, muziku i vatromet, kako i priliči razigranim Špancima. Da bi učesnici skupili snagu za ono što im predstoji, uveče pred borbu služi se paelja zadivljujućih razmera, koja predstavlja tipično valensijsko jelo od pirinča, morskih plodova, šafrana i maslinovog ulja. U neobuzdano slavlje danas je uveden izvestan red. Samo zbog ovog godišnjeg događaja organizatori su uzgojili posebnu sortu neukusnog paradajza. Proslava započinje oko 10 sati pre podne, takmičenjem u skidanju šunke pričvršćene za vrh zamašćenog stuba. Posmatrači polivaju takmičare vodom iz creva pevajući i igrajući po ulici. Kada crkveno zvono najavi podne, kamioni natovareni paradajzom ulaze u grad, a skandiranje "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" ("Pa-ra-dajz, pa-ra-dajz!") dostiže vrhunac. Glavni događaj započinje aktiviranjem vodenih topova, čime se učesnicima daje zeleno svetlo da svoje najbliže sa svih strana napadnu gađanjem i gnječenjem. Duga lopta, igra "jedan na jedan", horog iz srednje udaljenosti - kakvu god strategiju primenite, na kraju borbe izgledaćete (i osećati se) sasvim drugačije. Nepun sat kasnije, musavi borci ostaće da se igraju u kaši koja prekriva ulice i koja s paradajzom više nema mnogo sličnosti. Drugi vodeni plotun označiće kraj bitke. |